Cable Clamp

Choose a cable clamp that matches or slightly exceeds your cable’s outside diameter (OD). To determine the size, measure the bundle diameter accurately – you can use calipers or a flexible tape (even a string around the bundle, then measure its length/π) to find the diameter. It’s important that the clamp’s internal diameter is equal to or just a bit larger than the cable or wire bundle. A clamp that’s too small won’t fit or could crush the insulation, while one that’s too large might not securely support the cable. As a rule of thumb, if your measured bundle diameter is near the clamp’s maximum, go up to the next clamp size to ensure a snug but not overly tight fit (you can always add a wrap of tape or a bushing to fill small gaps).

Nylon cable clamps (often called R-type wire clamps or plastic clamps) are made of Nylon 6/6 plastic. They are lightweight, non-conductive, and inexpensive – great for general wiring runs. Nylon clamps are somewhat flexible and usually one-piece designs that you screw down to secure a cable bundle. However, plastic clamps can degrade over time in harsh environments (e.g. UV exposure or high heat) and they lack a cushioning liner, so they hold cables firmly but without extra vibration dampening.

Stainless steel rubber‑cushioned clamps (also known as P-clamps, loop clamps or Adel clamps) have a metal band (often corrosion-resistant steel) with an insulating rubber liner. They are much sturdier and can handle high temperatures and heavy-duty applications – for example, many steel clamps are rated for use up to ~400 °F (204 °C) without deforming. The rubber cushion (typically neoprene or EPDM) inside the clamp protects cables by providing electrical insulation and reducing wear from friction or vibration. These clamps are ideal when you need durability and vibration control (automotive, aviation, marine, etc.), though they are typically more expensive and heavier than nylon clamps. In summary, use nylon clamps for light-duty, indoor, or budget-sensitive projects, and use stainless cushioned P-clamps for heavy-duty, high-temperature, or high-vibration environments where extra protection is needed.

Our stainless steel cable clamps are designed to be highly corrosion-resistant, and for marine or saltwater environments a 316 stainless steel grade is recommended. Grade 316 stainless contains about 2–3% molybdenum, which dramatically improves resistance to chloride corrosion (saltwater) compared to 304 stainless. In other words, 316 is considered “marine-grade” stainless steel with superior resistance to pitting and rust in salty or harsh conditions. Grade 304 stainless steel (the standard stainless for many hardware items) is very good for general corrosion resistance but is more prone to pitting in long-term saltwater exposure.

If our product specifies marine-grade, it means it uses 316 SS, which will withstand marine environments much better and for longer. Even our 304 SS clamps will hold up well in normal outdoor use due to their chromium content, but for constant saltwater exposure, 316 stainless steel is the preferred choice. Rest assured, all our stainless clamps (304 or 316) are rust-resistant; for boat or dock installations in brine, we suggest choosing the 316 series if available. They provide the highest durability and corrosion resistance in salt spray conditions.

Yes – black nylon cable clamps are generally UV-resistant and suitable for outdoor use, especially the ones made from UV-stabilized Nylon 6/6. The black color is not just cosmetic; it typically indicates the plastic has been treated with carbon black or other stabilizers to resist ultraviolet light degradation. This means black nylon clamps hold up much better in sunlight compared to natural (white) nylon, which can become brittle over time from UV exposure. These are often used in solar panel installations and outdoor wiring harnesses without issue. For example, UV-stabilized nylon clamps meet industry specs for use in a wide temperature range from about -40 °F up to ~175 °F (around -40 to 80 °C).

In terms of temperature rating, standard nylon 6/6 clamps are typically rated for continuous use up to 85 °C (185 °F) before their mechanical strength significantly drops. They remain functional at cold temperatures down to roughly -40 °C/F (below that they may become more rigid or brittle). So, in practical terms, a black nylon clamp can handle summer heat, winter cold, and UV exposure. If your application involves extreme temperatures beyond ~85 °C (like next to engine exhaust manifolds), you might need specialized high-temp clamps, but for most outdoor electrical and solar PV cable routing, black nylon UV-resistant cable clamps are the go-to choice.

Cable clamp sizes are usually specified by the maximum bundle diameter they can accommodate. The common sizes and their approximate metric equivalents are:

• 1/4" clamp – fits cables about 1/4 inch in diameter, which is ~6.4 mm. (This would suit something like a CAT6 Ethernet cable or a single 6 AWG wire.)
• 3/8" clamp – fits ~3/8 inch (9.5 mm) bundles.
• 1/2" clamp – fits ~1/2 inch (12.7 mm) bundles.
• 3/4" clamp – fits ~3/4 inch (19.1 mm) bundles.
• 1" clamp – fits ~1.00 inch (25.4 mm) bundles.

In other words, a clamp labeled by those inch sizes will hold a cable of that diameter (or slightly smaller). For example, a “1/2 inch cable clamp” will handle cables about 12–13 mm in diameter. If you’re working in metric, many manufacturers also list the metric size: e.g. a 20 mm clamp corresponds roughly to 3/4", and a 25 mm clamp to 1". The key is to pick a clamp size at or just above your cable’s OD. (Many clamp assortment kits cover these standard sizes – 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1 inch, etc., covering the range of ~6 mm up to ~25 mm diameters.)

Most screw-mount cable clamps have a hole sized to accept common small screws or bolts. On typical nylon R-clamps and smaller cushioned clamps, the mounting hole is often about 3/16" to 1/4" in diameter (around 4–6 mm). For instance, a heavy-duty nylon clamp with a 3/16" bundle size might have a 0.205" (~5.2 mm) mounting hole, which comfortably fits a #10 screw or M5 bolt. In practice, here’s what to use:

• Small-to-medium clamps (up to about 1/2" bundle) usually take a #8 screw (approximately 4 mm diameter) as a good fit. A #6 screw (3.5 mm) can also work for very small clamps or if the hole is tight. Metric equivalents: #6 is roughly M3.5, #8 is roughly M4.
• Larger clamps (3/4" or 1" and above) often have slightly larger holes around 1/4" (6–7 mm). These can accept a #10 screw or even a 1/4"-20 bolt (M5 or M6 bolt) depending on the clamp design. For example, many steel P-clamps have a 1/4" clearance hole to allow a 1/4" bolt for sturdy mounting.

As for recommended tightening torque, the goal is to secure the clamp without crushing it or the cable. Plastic clamps should be snugged by hand – usually just a few inch-pounds of torque. For reference, a #8 machine screw might be tightened to on the order of ~7–9 in‑lb (inch-pounds) and a #10 screw to ~9–11 in‑lb for clamps. These are low torque values – basically just beyond finger-tight using a screwdriver. Over-torquing a nylon clamp can crack it, and over-torquing a cushioned clamp can squish the rubber and deform the clamp. If using a 1/4" bolt on a heavy steel clamp, you might go a bit higher (~12 in‑lb or per standard spec), but generally err on the side of gentle tightening with a locknut or lockwasher to keep it from loosening. In summary: use #8 (M4) or #10 (M5) screws for most clamps, and tighten just enough that the clamp doesn’t rattle or move – usually only a few Newton-centimeters of torque, not cranked down hard.

The rubber lining in most cushioned P-clamps is typically made from EPDM or neoprene rubber. In standard clamps, the cushion is often a neoprene (chloroprene) compound, which has good all-around durability. Neoprene/EPDM liners are chosen because they insulate the clamp, dampen vibrations, and handle outdoor conditions well. These materials are resistant to many chemicals, oils, and fuels, but with some caveats:

• EPDM rubber is excellent for weather, ozone, and aging resistance. It holds up well in outdoor and automotive environments and can tolerate heat. However, EPDM is not the best against petroleum oils or gasoline – extended exposure to oil/fuel can cause EPDM to swell or degrade. So if a clamp’s liner is EPDM, it’s great for, say, holding cables or hoses in a hot engine bay, but if it’s constantly soaked in oil, it might deteriorate faster than other rubbers.
• Neoprene (Chloroprene) rubber is commonly used in cushioned clamps (many aerospace “Adel” clamps use a chloroprene-based cushion). Neoprene has decent oil and fuel resistance – in fact, many general-purpose cushioned clamps are fine with occasional fuel or oil contact. Neoprene is also ozone-resistant. So a neoprene-lined clamp is typically safe for securing fuel lines or hydraulic brake lines where there might be the occasional splash of gasoline or oil. It’s not designed to be submerged in fuel, but it won’t fall apart from minor contact.
• Silicone rubber cushions are less common in standard clamps but are used for high-temperature applications. Regular silicone rubber isn’t very resistant to gasoline/oil (it can swell), but there are special fluorosilicone cushions that are both high-temp and fuel-resistant. For example, in aviation there are clamps with blue fluorosilicone liners specifically for engine compartments – these handle continuous exposure to petroleum fluids and can withstand very high heat (rated to ~450 °F). Those are used when standard neoprene might get too hot or be bathed in oil.

So, to answer the question: most rubber-cushioned clamps use an EPDM or neoprene liner by default, which gives them a broad chemical resistance profile and cushions the cable. They are generally fine with oil/fuel exposure in moderation – for instance, they’re widely used to secure automotive fuel and brake lines, indicating they can handle those chemicals. If your application involves constant contact with aggressive chemicals or very high temperatures, you should seek out clamps explicitly made with special cushion materials (like fluorosilicone or nitrile). Otherwise, standard cushioned clamps will resist road grime, oil spray, and fuel drips just fine without the rubber deteriorating quickly. Always verify the material: EPDM-lined clamps are superb for weather but avoid long-term oil soak, whereas neoprene-lined (or “fuel-resistant”) clamps are better if oil and fuel resistance is crucial.

Yes, absolutely – both nylon and rubber-cushioned metal cable clamps are commonly used in automotive applications to secure all sorts of lines and wire looms. In fact, cable clamps are often referred to as hose clamps or line clamps in automotive contexts (not to be confused with the worm-drive hose clamps used for sealing hoses, of course – here we mean for holding hoses/cables in place along a vehicle chassis or engine). Here are some specifics:

• Brake lines: Rigid brake tubing is often fastened to the frame or body using P-clamps with rubber cushioning. The cushion prevents the metal brake line from chafing or rattling against the body. A stainless steel clamp with a neoprene liner is ideal and is exactly what many cars use stock. These clamps handle the under-car environment (water, salt, grime) well. Just use the correct size so the clamp grips the brake line snugly.
• Fuel lines: Similarly, fuel hoses or hard lines can be secured with cushioned clamps. Our clamps with EPDM/neoprene cushions are rated for incidental exposure to fuels, so they won’t degrade from a bit of gasoline or diesel splash. They keep the fuel line from vibrating, which is important to prevent fatigue. Make sure to use a fuel-resistant cushion if the clamp will be constantly soaked (though typically the lines are dry on the outside). Many OEMs use rubber-lined clamps for fuel lines along the frame.
• Battery cables: Heavy battery cables (like the 0 AWG or 2 AWG leads from the battery to starter or chassis) are secured with clamps to keep them from flopping around. A nylon clamp can work here if sized properly, but often a metal P-clamp is used for strength. For example, a battery cable clamp might be a 1/2" or 3/4" cushioned clamp that is bolted to the chassis, holding the thick battery cable in place. This protects the cable from chafing on sharp edges and from stress due to engine vibration.
• Under-hood wire looms: Under the hood, temperatures can be high, and there’s vibration from the engine. Nylon clamps (especially heat-stabilized ones) are used extensively to organize wiring harnesses in engine bays – they are usually attached to sheet metal or to engine components via screws or push-in Christmas tree fasteners. They work fine as long as they’re away from extreme heat sources. For hotter zones (like near the engine block or exhaust), stainless steel P-clamps with rubber lining are preferred because they can tolerate the heat and won’t become brittle. These clamps provide both secure mounting and vibration isolation for the wire looms, which helps prevent wire fatigue. Steel clamps are also good in high-vibration spots because the rubber cushion and the steel’s strength keep things in place even when the engine is rumbling.

In summary, these cable clamps are designed for exactly such uses: automotive cable management. They excel at preventing movement, wear, and noise. Make sure to choose a clamp material appropriate for the location (e.g. use stainless in the engine bay for heat resistance, use UV-resistant nylon for areas exposed to sun like under the hood near the top, etc.). Also use an appropriately sized screw/bolt into a solid mounting point on the vehicle. Many enthusiasts and OEMs alike use our nylon clamps for routing wires and our cushioned “P-clamps” for securing hoses and lines in cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. They will keep your brake lines, fuel lines, and battery cables neat and safe.

For marine and RV applications, the key considerations are exposure to the elements (water, salt, UV) and vibration. Generally, the stainless steel rubber-cushioned P-clamps are the best all-around choice for heavy-duty marine/RV use. Here’s why:

• Stainless steel (especially 316 stainless) is highly resistant to corrosion, which is critical on a boat or an RV that might see coastal salt air. A marine-grade 316 stainless clamp with a rubber lining will last a long time in saltwater conditions without rusting. The rubber cushion protects your cables from chafing and also electrically insulates them from the metal clamp and whatever it’s mounted on (important on boats to avoid galvanic issues). These clamps are also very strong, so they can support heavy cables or hoses even when the vessel or vehicle is vibrating or rocking.
• Nylon clamps can be used in marine/RV settings too, especially if they are UV-stabilized (e.g. black nylon). They won’t corrode at all (being plastic) and are easier to install in some cases. For example, running wiring inside an RV’s interior or a boat cabin, nylon cable clamps are fine and they’re non-conductive. However, in harsh sun and salt, nylon will eventually age and could become brittle after many years. Also, nylon/plastic clamps don’t have the strength of metal – in a high-vibration area or for a heavy cable bundle, they might not hold as firmly. They are best for light-duty or indoor routes on the RV/boat. In truly demanding spots, people prefer metal. In fact, experienced boaters note that rubber-lined stainless clamps hold up far better long-term; plastic ones can get brittle and break after extended UV and heat cycling.
• Aluminum clamps are a bit of a niche. Some P-clamps have aluminum bands (common in aircraft clamps to save weight). Aluminum is also quite corrosion-resistant (forms its own protective oxide). If you have an aluminum-bodied clamp with a rubber cushion, it could do well on a boat and won’t rust either. However, aluminum is softer than steel and not as strong, so the clamp may not take as much abuse or tension. Also, if mounting to a steel surface, aluminum could introduce galvanic corrosion issues in saltwater (though the rubber lining and a stainless screw can help mitigate that). Aluminum clamps are not as widely available in varied sizes compared to stainless or nylon. They might be useful if weight is a concern (perhaps on a race boat or an RV where every gram counts), but in general they’re less common.

For a marine environment, I would strongly recommend 316 stainless steel P-clamps with neoprene/EPDM lining as the “best” solution. They handle sun, salt, and pounding waves with minimal deterioration. The cushion prevents the stainless band from cutting into cables and also reduces vibration-induced wear. In an RV (which sees rain, sun, and lots of vibration on the road), stainless P-clamps are also top-tier, especially for securing things in the engine compartment or chassis. In less exposed parts of the RV (like running cables inside cabinets or along the interior), the black nylon clamps are perfectly fine and are easier to screw into wood or plastic panels.

To summarize: Use stainless steel cushioned clamps for critical, exposed, or heavy-duty cable runs in marine/RV settings, because they’re the most robust and corrosion-proof. Nylon clamps can be used for lighter-duty or protected areas (they are indeed used on RV solar panel cable installs, etc., because they’re quick and non-corrosive), but be aware of their longevity in harsh sun. Aluminum clamps, while usable, don’t offer significant benefits over stainless in most cases. Many marine installers explicitly favor the rubber-lined stainless clamps, noting they are much stronger and don’t become brittle like plain plastic over time. So, for the best longevity and performance on your boat or RV, go with the stainless P-clamps (ideally in 316 grade for saltwater).

We offer both screw-mount cable clamps (the kind with a hole for a screw or bolt) and adhesive-mount cable clamps. Adhesive cable clamps typically have a peel-and-stick base, using a strong industrial adhesive so you can mount them without drilling. These come in various styles – some are one-piece clips, others have an adjustable or ratcheting loop to hold the cables. They are very useful for scenarios where you can’t drill into the surface or want a quicker installation.

Regarding adhesive strength: high-quality adhesive mounts use either acrylic foam tape or rubber-based adhesive on the back. Both are quite strong, but with different characteristics:

• Acrylic adhesives (often a gray 3M VHB-type foam tape) have excellent long-term holding power. They form a durable bond that resists moisture, UV, and chemicals. An acrylic adhesive will actually strengthen a bit over the first 24 hours as it cures. It’s less affected by heat and humidity over time, so it’s often rated for outdoor use. For instance, acrylic-based adhesive clamps are recommended for damp or humid environments because they won’t weaken much with water exposure. They also handle chemicals and solvents better.
• Rubber-based adhesives have a very tacky grip and achieve a strong hold immediately upon sticking (faster grab). They can conform well to textured or uneven surfaces and provide a slight shock-absorbing quality. Rubber adhesives are great for indoor applications or surfaces that aren’t perfectly smooth. They tend to have a bit more flexibility (so they can absorb vibration, which can help keep the bond under shaking conditions). However, pure rubber adhesives might degrade faster in high heat or if exposed to a lot of UV or water, compared to acrylic. They’re very sticky initially but can slowly lose strength in harsh outdoor conditions.

Both types, when properly applied to a clean, dry surface, can hold a surprising amount of weight. We don’t quote an exact weight limit because it depends on surface material and condition, but a good adhesive clamp on a smooth wall can easily support the weight of a bundle of cables (on the order of a few pounds of pull force). For example, one of our adjustable adhesive cable clamps uses a high-bond acrylic tape and can hold cables securely even in vibration; it locks around the bundle and won’t slide unless intentionally released.

That said, adhesive mounts are generally recommended for light to medium duty cable support. For heavy cables or critical holds, a mechanical screw is still safest. Adhesive strength can also depend on temperature: most need to be applied above ~50 °F, and extreme heat (over the adhesive’s rating, e.g. 80 °C) could soften the bond. Also, over years, an adhesive might dry out or lose grip, especially if the surface wasn’t perfectly prepared.

In summary, yes we do have adhesive-backed cable clamps, and they are quite strong when used correctly. The adhesive, whether acrylic or rubber-based, is engineered for cable management – acrylic offers high bond strength and environmental resistance, while rubber-based adhesives offer flexibility and quick tack. Clean the surface (no dust, oil) and press firmly when applying for best results. Expect an adhesive clamp to hold up cables in an RV, office, or control panel with no trouble. But if you’re routing a very heavy hose or something under constant tension, we’d advise using a screw mount or at least supplementing adhesive mounts with screws or other support. For most wiring jobs (e.g., sticking a cable clip to a wall or frame), the adhesive mounts are plenty strong and make installation easy without compromising on holding power.